Sarah and Joshua Christenson take great pride in their involvement in the local food economy. Together, they co-own a historic ranch in western Montana that has been in operation for 117 years. Their daily activities revolve around tasks such as repairing fence poles, managing cattle herds, and, notably, transporting livestock trailers across the state to access nearby butchers.
In the Western region, ranchers like the Christensons frequently transport their cows over long distances to meatpacking plants for slaughtering, butchering, and packaging the meat for sale. This practice not only contributes to carbon emissions but also poses a financial burden on an industry already grappling with environmental and economic challenges. The magnitude of this issue is substantial enough that cities in the West, such as Missoula, are actively exploring community-owned initiatives to address the processing bottleneck.
Meatpacking, also known as meat processing, in today’s food system, usually occurs in locations far from the farm and often in different states. A mere 5% or less of the cattle born in Montana are processed within the state.
According to Erika Berglund, chair of the Missoula City and County Food Advisory Board, many consumers are unaware that even when they purchase local beef, it still needs to be transported outside of Missoula for processing and then brought back.
In the past, small family ranchers used to bring their cows to Missoula, supporting a thriving meat-processing industry. However, the situation has changed. Currently, the majority of the meatpacking industry is dominated by four companies: Tyson, JBS, Cargill, and National Beef Packing Company, who collectively hold around 85% of the market share. Nowadays, most beef producers in the United States sell their cattle to large feedlots. These feedlots are responsible for fattening the cattle with grain before sending them off to one of the four aforementioned processing companies.
Many consumers are unaware that even when purchasing local beef, it must first be transported out of Missoula for processing before returning.
Erika Berglund, chair of the Missoula City and County Food Advisory Board
During the COVID-19 pandemic, consumers faced severe consequences due to the dominance of meatpacking monopolies. In December 2021, the White House criticized these companies for raising beef prices by up to 35%, greatly burdening consumers. Meanwhile, ranchers like the Christensons struggled to sustain their livelihood solely through ranching. Christenson revealed that selling to large feedlots located outside their state rarely yielded profits, while collaborating with the limited number of small-scale processors also proved to be expensive.
According to Christenson, she usually allocates around $400 for diesel fuel expenses during a single trip to different meat processors across the state. Additionally, she frequently has to bring her children along and arrange hotel accommodations for these excursions. To manage these challenges, the Christensons have established partnerships with processors throughout Montana and secure appointments well in advance, typically 12 to 18 months ahead.
In 2021, Dick Mangan and his family established a farm stand near Missoula to market their ranch’s fresh produce and meats. Along with a variety of fruits and lamb and goat meat, Mangan also offers diverse beef products. Although the stand has achieved success, Mangan has no intentions of expanding the beef segment due to issues with local processing facilities experiencing bottlenecks.
Mangan expressed that one of the difficulties lies in the search for skilled individuals in the field, particularly in finding competent butchers.
At present, Mangan collaborates with the 4-H program at Big Sky High School for their meatpacking needs. Each year, the high-schoolers assist in processing a small number of cows for him.
Mangan dismissed the idea, stating, “It’s not worth it; teaming up with a bigger meat processor would incur significant travel expenses, amounting to thousands of dollars.”
Logan Mannix, the manager of Mannix Family Ranch, a mid-size ranch located in the Blackfoot Valley, expressed the ranch’s struggle with expansion. During the peak of the pandemic, Mannix mentioned that they faced difficulties in finding processors to butcher the approximately 40 cows that were readily available for the ranch’s grass-fed beef program.
The Mannix family transports their cattle approximately 120 miles from their ranch to a regional processor located in Superior, resulting in costly trips that contribute to the carbon footprint associated with the production of beef.
According to the EPA, traveling back and forth for that distance would result in approximately 94,380 grams of CO2 emitted from the vehicle. In order to neutralize this carbon footprint, the Mannixes would need to plant nine trees per trip, as suggested by the European Environment Agency.
Beef stands as one of the most harmful foods for the environment worldwide. According to a study conducted in 2008 by Ecological Economics, the production of a single pound of beef results in approximately 15 pounds of greenhouse gas emissions, equivalent to driving a car for approximately 20 miles. Additionally, a 2020 report by the nonprofit organization Foodprint estimated that the production of one pound of ground beef requires over 1,840 gallons of water. To add to this already detrimental impact, transporting cattle long distances for processing further contributes to carbon emissions, analogous to adding gasoline-soaked icing on a cake.
Raising cattle on western prairies also brings about environmental advantages. In numerous locations that currently support ranching, vast herds of bison once roamed. These grasslands are naturally adapted to grazing, as highlighted by Bart Morris, the proprietor of Oxbow Cattle Company and a member of the Missoula City and County Food Advisory Board.
Morris expressed his strong support for the preservation of Mother Earth, emphasizing his deep belief that ungulates have played a crucial role in the evolution of grasslands.
In 2014, Morris and his wife established Oxbow Cattle Company, situated south of Missoula. Their expertise in wildlife management and health motivated them to integrate eco-conscious methods such as rotational grazing and conservation easements into their operations.
Morris acknowledges that the processing bottleneck poses a challenge for the ranch’s environmental objectives and economic stability. However, similar to numerous contemporary cowboys, Morris’s upbringing on ranches has created a deep attachment to cattle, making it impossible for him to envision a life without them.
Morris stated that viewing it as a job would lead to hatred, as it is more of a lifestyle.
The Food Advisory Board in Missoula recently presented a proposal aimed at obtaining funding for a feasibility study. This study aimed to assess if the city could sustain a meat-processing facility. Although the proposal was not selected for funding in the end, the Food Advisory Board remains committed to exploring different avenues to enhance local meat processing.
Morris’s current round-trip commute of approximately 120 miles would be reduced to only about 35 miles if a processing facility is established in Missoula.
In addition to Missoula, other communities are also seeking government-funded infrastructure. In 2022, around $8 million in federal funds was designated for the establishment and upkeep of small-scale agricultural enterprises in Montana. This includes the construction of three new meat-processing facilities, capable of handling 50 to 70 cows per week. Moreover, funding was allocated for the expansion of 14 existing facilities, including one in Hamilton. Recently, the USDA granted over $9.7 million for the advancement of meat and poultry processing in Great Falls, Butte, Helena, and Lewiston.
According to Neva Hassanein, a professor of environmental studies at the University of Montana, addressing the processing bottleneck requires government intervention. In her perspective, these initiatives enable individual communities to regain power.
According to Hassanein, our economy operates in many ways similar to a centralized system, albeit controlled by companies rather than the government.
Hassanein acknowledged that monopolies have hindered the beef-processing industry for many years. However, she remains optimistic that an increasing awareness among the public regarding the food economy will prompt greater governmental regulations.
“The local food movement has played a key role in recent years in revitalizing it,” Hassanein stated. “There is a growing trend among ranchers to explore diversification.”
According to Hassanein, the changing consumer mindset towards wanting to know the origin of their food creates the perfect opportunity to address the long-standing processing monopoly.
The Christensons, who are ranchers, are excited about the upcoming opportunities for meat processing that could potentially simplify their ranch management. Sarah Christenson is particularly eager for this change.
In October’s afternoon, Christenson tended to her stall at the Missoula Farmers Market, offering her home-raised beef cuts for sale. She carefully arranged a selection of marbled meat on the table, delicately tracing her finger over the delicate streams of ivory fat.
Christenson admitted, “It might sound cheesy, but I take pride in what we create.”
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