Road Trip: Eureka Springs is ideal for lovers (and stoners)

Any time you’ve spent long careening along the serpentine curves of U.S. Highway 62 in Northwest Arkansas, you know that you can’t miss it when the outskirts of Eureka Springs unfold outside your windshield. There’s a prolific presence of roadside galleries, numerous dollhouse bed-and-breakfasts, advertisements promoting scenic tours in the Ozarks, a 70-year-old opera company, and a historic Forestry Service fire tower repurposed for tourists as an observation deck. Eureka doesn’t have a Walmart or an Applebee’s. Instead, visitors find more hot tubs per square mile than surely any other town in Arkansas, a thriving health food store that’s open every day, a boutique hot sauce shop, and the time capsule that is Hart’s Family Center grocery store, charmingly dubbed by a TikTok filmmaker as PineAcre.

Vegetarian and vegan options abound on restaurant menus, and your server is about 1,457% more likely in Little Rock to sport a man bun or be named “Solstice.” If I stayed for more than a month or two, I might start changing tie colors in my sartorial life, maybe even asserting their rightful place in the world of business attire. Now, Eureka is home to Osage Creek Lodge, a stately former Best Western turned motorcourt hotel with an on-site marijuana dispensary — perhaps the only hotel lobby in the state that boasts an earthy (and legal) whiff of cannabis. The Swiss-esque mountain town is also home to a relaxing 420-friendly cabin resort and several off-the-beaten-path delights worth getting high on, detailed here for your summer vacation enjoyment.

You know that trick real estate agents and Airbnb hosts do where they show you the most flattering angles of the property hoping to make it look more appealing? Absolutely none of that is happening at Lazee Daze, the 63-acre tranquil cabin retreat nestled in the hills of scenic Arkansas Highway 23, just outside of town, with two-story country cabins and smaller honeymoon/anniversary cabins featuring large heart-shaped tubs. The red cedar interiors, native stone fireplaces, covered porches, and country decor exude major grandma’s house/”Goldilocks and the Three Bears” vibes, and the properties are scattered throughout lushly green (in spring, anyway) wooded areas, positioned in a way that guests don’t see much of their neighbors in nearby cabins — just trees, birds, squirrels, and, if you’re as lucky as we were, gentle rainfalls in the forest. While owners Charles and Robin Mowrey emphasize that no smoking is allowed indoors, the cabin porches are “420-friendly,” meaning what medical marijuana patients “responsibly smoke on these porches,” Lazee Daze literature states, “is your business.” In fact, with some ID verification in advance, you can have a curated hemp-derived THC edible package waiting in your cabin upon arrival, through a partnership Lazee Daze has with Ouachita Farms.

Charles became an advocate for medical marijuana use after seeing cannabis help his father in his battle with pancreatic cancer, and when medical marijuana was legalized in Arkansas, the couple decided they would “discreetly add a page to the website letting people know. That’s how we got to where we are now,” Charles said. Important to note: There’s no Wi-Fi in the cabins, and cell service can be spotty. If you’ve gotta be plugged in, you’ll have to return to the entrance near Lazee Daze’s office to get a signal. But if you can afford to do so, perhaps consider going with the whole “digital detox” approach?

Osage Creek Lodge

Keep in mind that courtly Best Western that sits at the turn into Eureka’s historic downtown area? Guess what: It’s now Osage Creek Lodge. And guess what else: the Osage Creek that’s printed on the side of the marijuana packaging. With a cultivation facility cranking out marijuana in Berryville and several competing dispensaries located an hour away in the Fayetteville area, nearby Eureka became an appealing place for Osage Creek to establish an operation in Carroll County. “The thing about Eureka Springs,” said Osage Creek Cultivation CFO Matt Trulove, “is that if it’s a good spot, it’s probably got a hotel on it.” While the hotel and the dispensary (and the cultivation farm, for that matter) operate as separate entities, the overall user experience resembles a Southern-style, mid-century marijuana motorcourt, complete with a sunny pool and a modern marijuana pharmacy (see Osage Creek Dispensary below) where the hotel’s conference rooms used to be. “A lot of hotels have an amenity space,” Trulove said, “and I haven’t really seen a dispensary on one of those lists.” Speaking of amenities, there’s a hot tub and a fitness center, and when you’re ready to head downtown for a bite to eat (Trulove recommends The Grotto and Gaskin’s Cabin Steakhouse), the lodge is a stop on the Eureka trolley, or you can take a quick, shaded walk downhill to the downtown area.

Transdermal patches and hot honey and Mountain Mints, oh my! Eager and knowledgeable budtenders at Osage Creek attend to a sleek showroom just off the lodge lobby, all seemingly with a beautifully nerdy approach to discussing medical marijuana. When I visited, the shop was gauging the appeal of skincare goodies from a woman-owned cannabis company called Shake Extracts, including a THC-forward face serum with apricot oil. Bonus points for the perfect lighting and a tranquil waiting area that showcases the dispensary’s products on softly lit shelves. Doesn’t it get any more Wes Anderson than that adorable little “DISPENSARY to your right” sign at the lodge clerk’s desk just a few steps away from the defunct Gazebo Restaurant?

The ReLeaf Center

At the north end of Bentonville, between Bella Vista and Pea Ridge, sits ReLeaf, where a serene country home feel dominates this dispensary and cultivation facility. It’s worth noting that they have a philanthropic arm through their “Plant A Seed” program, which benefits the NWA Women’s Shelter, a veteran suicide intervention effort called We are the 22, a criminal justice reform effort The Last Prisoner Project, and LGBTQ+ advocacy group NWA Equality. (And it’s great that they, like Osage Creek, offer eighths on special for $13.50. Budget-minded consumers, rejoice!)

The Source

With three locations in Missouri and one in Arkansas, The Source goes all out with funky decor and a boutique approach to medical cannabis. Their latest project, “In the Flow,” envisions a small-batch cannabis brand cultivated under sustainable lighting and packaged with a focus on sustainability. (Remember when most Arkansas medical marijuana came in those garish fluorescent green pharmacy cylinders? How odd!) What’s even cooler is that they proudly state their commitment to hiring as many local artists as possible for their store’s design, interior decor, and merchandise.

Pussy Lake Atteinte Site Recreation area

About 9 miles west of town on U.S. Highway 62, you’ll find green highway signs for Beaver Lake’s Atteinte Site Recreation Area at the junction with Arkansas Highway 187. Some Eureka Springs enthusiasts might refer to it as the turnoff to the peculiar old abandoned “dinosaur park,” where large replicas of prehistoric reptiles once dominated the hillside, attracting trespassers despite the property owners’ objections. Follow the signs to the campground for a breathtaking sunset or an overnight stay. Alternatively, you can do as we did and head to the White Bass Cove day-use area, where you can dip your feet in the water and enjoy a relaxing Stoned Soul Picnic. (PSA: Remember that smoking medical cannabis is prohibited on federal lands in Arkansas, folks.)

1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa

75 Prospect Ave., Eureka Springs

Described captivatingly in Sean Fitzgibbon’s 2022 graphic non-fiction book “What Follows Is True,” the Crescent Hotel has long captivated the imagination, especially for those of us who are drawn to the unconventional. Perched on the mountainside like Stephen King’s iconic Overlook Hotel, the Crescent Hotel offers not only accommodation but also an experience to wander through its halls during lazy afternoons, savoring a ghost pepper grey goose cocktail at the balcony bar on the top floor, participating in a ghost tour, or strolling through the manicured gardens. The hotel recently added the seasonal Frisco Sporting Tavern, an outdoor play space with bocce ball, axe throwing, a swing set beneath towering trees, and a giant chess/checkers set that will transport you to Lewis Carroll’s Wonderland. Don’t forget to acknowledge the hotel’s resident black cat, who has its own dedicated exit/entrance on the back wall of the lobby, just behind the venerable “Welte Philharmonic Salon Model 4” self-playing pipe organ.

Pro tip: Rushing to reach the Crescent is not the recommended approach. The hotel is located along a scenic historic loop, so give yourself ample time to leisurely navigate the canopied switchbacks.

Quigley’s Castle

274 Quigley Castle Road, Eureka Springs

 

Imagine a scenario where a 1930s timber company employee inherited a parcel of land in Carroll County. He promised his nature-loving wife that he would design and build a new house on the property. However, when he returned home from work, he discovered that his wife had accelerated the project by demolishing the existing family room, resulting in the immediate start of construction on their new dwelling. This is the story behind Quigley’s Castle, known as “The Ozarks’ Strangest Dwelling” according to its owners. Inside, the lines between interior and exterior are blurred, with 70-year-old plants creeping up to brush against the second-story ceiling through 28 windows, while four feet of bare soil separate the exterior windows from the living space. The rooms feature a diverse collection of natural wonders, including seashell tiles, walls made entirely of butterflies and moth specimens, vertical rock formations showcased in concrete, a bird named Tweety flitting among tropical vines in the windows, and extensive collections of fossils and arrowheads.

Outside, over a hundred rock sculptures dot a wildflower and rose garden adorned with Elise Quigley’s handcrafted benches, bird baths, and box trees. An excerpt from Elise in the castle’s pamphlet reads, “[I wanted] a home where I felt I was actually living in the world rather than in a box. I designed it in my mind, but I couldn’t explain to anyone what I wanted, so I sat down with scissors, paste, cardboard, and matchsticks to create a model.”

Local Flavor Cafe

71 S. Main St

Local Flavor Cafe, located at 71 S. Main St., is a highly recommended dining spot in Eureka Springs. It’s no surprise that this place often comes up when people ask for dining suggestions in Eureka. The line outside on weekends speaks for itself—it’s definitely worth the wait. Make sure to try their biscuits and gravy or their creamy grits. During my visit, I had dinner on their softly lit patio and thoroughly enjoyed their signature Sesame-encrusted Goat Cheese Salad and Eggplant Parmesan. The Eggplant Parmesan featured generously sized aubergine patties with a delightfully crispy crust, served with roasted asparagus spears on a bed of pasta and a vibrant tomato sauce. Beer enthusiasts should not miss the local craft beer selection, which includes crowd-pleasers from Gotahold Brewing. The brewery is a project by longtime brewmaster Dave Hartmann, who, along with co-owner Wendy Reese Hartmann, pays homage to Eureka Springs by naming the brewery “Gotahold” when they first visited.

Myrtie Mae’s at Inn of the Ozarks

207 W. Van Buren, Eureka Springs

Sometimes, all you need is a place with a salad bar, senior discounts, and some delectable fried chicken, and that’s where Myrtie Mae’s comes in. This homestyle kitchen is attached to the Inn of the Ozarks, giving you the feeling that you’ve stumbled upon a museum dedicated to Eureka Springs’ history, complete with a Luby’s cafeteria in the middle. And let me tell you, it’s awesome.

The Two-Piece Myrtie’s Famous Ozark Fried Chicken is a satisfying option, served piping hot and ultra-crispy, accompanied by a baked potato with that nostalgic cafeteria-warmer-slow-burn exterior. The fried green beans with house-made creamy horseradish sauce are also delightful. While dining, you might catch some interesting conversations from Myrtie’s regulars discussing local news nearby.